Iceland Day 2 - Ice Lagoon

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Bright, early sun. Groggy head, back to bed. We got up finally around 11.

Peanut butter on bread with dates on top. Decaf coffee to wash it down. Throughout this trip, this combination (along with butter and sardines) was heaven on earth.

Drove out of the campsite, but before leaving, read about the high-land hikes around Vik. Two in particular climbed opposite cliffs that stood on either side of the town. (The town is so tiny, the opposite ends are closer than a mile, as the crow flies.) One hike in particular caught my eye. It started at a ancient church and went up, pastorally, over wild fields. I wanted to see the mountain, but that would have to wait. We had a schedule and a friend to meet on the East side of the island.

Across the street was a wool store and a grocery. We stopped for more bread and also took a cup of coffee at the cafe. On the way out of town, we stopped at one gas station (closed), then another, and struggled to figure out how to pay at the gas machines.

As we went East, the scenery changed suddenly, and repeatedly. The mountains pulled away and the space between the road and sea expanded. We drove into a desolate, black sand expanse drained by meandering rivers. At once, the landscape became endless, tumbled, black lava boulders grown over with moss lichen and small wildflowers. Still more changes. Mossy downs, like ancient barrows. More boulders. The mountains and cliffs drew near once more and the cliffs rose high, doubling size. White plaster farm houses with red metal roofs. Waterfalls spilling over the cliffs.

On the map, we spotted a scenic detour: Fjathrágljúfur. We pulled off highway 1 to walk up a cliff and back along a gorge, following a small stream far below. From the top, we watched sparrows and grazing sheep in the Earthen crack. We were hungry and discussed toasted bread fried in butter and topped with tomatoes and sardines. Back at the van, on the side of the road, we made our lunch plans a reality.

Turning the southeast corner of the island, we found a lagoon exposed by a retreating glacier. The sapphire bergs were floating, crashing. Seals peeked out between them. There on the other side of the world, we met a friend who was also visiting that island.

We all caravanned back to Skaftafel National Park below a glacier, and we rented campsites. Hot dinner. Dishes. Shower (nice facilities). Bed.

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