The Return to Mexico City
When I came to Mexico City, there was music reverberating in my head - a song from my dreams - but as I wandered Avenida Insurgentes, the sound faded. I thought about the Metro instead. One day, I went to Zocalo in the rain. There were endless streets of shops with anything one could want: dresses, shoes, underwear, food (of course), trinkets, cowboy clothes, crafts, electronics, jewelry, baskets. The stalls went up and down alleys. It was a market en masse. There were people en masse, too, crowding on the Metro, pushing against me so that there was no need to hold on as the train moved. Falling was impossible. Another day, I rode the Metro to Candesa, and walked without a map. I wound through the streets, past El Universidad de los Americas, past an aqua duct, until I saw a golden angel floating above a grassy knoll, cars circling around it. I stopped for a chocolate drink in a rich, hip barrio. There were clubs blasting music, storefronts filled with half naked mannequins (male...